Well, tight, all, no other way to put it: San Francisco Chronicle Gourmet Mackenzie Chung Fegan drops a bomb in a story about visiting the threeling restaurant French washing,, where is Chef Thomas Keller he was asked to leave. This is, of course, one of the cardinal sins of a business built in hospitality, especially if dinner has not done anything worthy to get 86d in a restaurant critic.
To recount visit, Fegan details are separated from his dinner for a 30-minute chef conversation, where the kellers ask the motives (no, a review did not come, according to Fegan); States New York Times The critic Melissa Clark lied to the test of the French laundry under anonymity; And then mourning a past period of when “critics and chefs are on the same team,” Fegan's letter. In the end, even told that he was asked to leave, fed the party at Fegan and was given a tour of the kitchen and restaurant, but he wrote that he was talking. “
Of course, the article is more than that. It's a story that weaves in an extraordinary amount of detailing about the restaurant itself, food criticism, and the history of keller, and at its heart, paints a picture of a chef who seems both absolutely sick of restaurant reviews and yet fully obsessed at the same time.
Here are five takeaways from San Francisco Chronicle Story:
Keller loves critics, or enjoy them very well
One of the biggest pain points for Keller the barrer of bad reviews of his restaurants received in recent years: In the account of Fegan, there is San Francisco Chronicle KRO Sole Soleil Ho 2022, “French washing remains very hot there is a black market for reservations. Is Spling worth it?“Paired with the latest New York Times's Dual Review of Keller's Per Se and French Haundry. French washing ears even some coconuts the slander. After New York Times Critical Wells of Pete Write USA Invalid Review 2016 Where he refers to a soup mushrooms like healing “Bong Water,” the Keller and his team without teaching a literally prepared with a ho and clark in their visit. Ho removed it as a “Good enough of artistry“And the repler told them that Keller pulled it” for restaurant industry folks because he knew we could get a kick out of it. “If, in the case of an anonymous critic, which is still” good “today, it insists Clark, and strange charade, and oddly (clark) remains unconvention.”
In Fegan's recount, Keller believes good days of criticism of OL ', not surprising, if the reviews are good, and the Keller is still calling FORMER San Francisco Chronicle Build Michael Bauer “A friend.” Let's say Bauer is likely to not receive a table Bong.
Keller equals criticism of Chef Michel Richard's death
Fegan wrote that the Keller at one time seemed to suggest that a critic Invalid review At the Chef Michel Richard's New York Restaurant “The reason for the death of a good person.” He said told the BACKGROUND His critique plan to write about Richard and that is not a good review when he wrote his memoir; While he “gets” why newspapers need to stimulate controversy, he will never rush to read what Times Critics are written like his usual a young chef. His concern, told Fegan, so “Young Chefs who work for him should not lose their job.”
Cultural Applause is not an item in World's Worlerview
One of the most curious-pointed keller removed from BACKGROUND story about a Actually positive review to his other restaurant, La Calenda. Changing Ho's critique at the restaurant, where Ho calls the Cultural approval of the LA calendar, “Keller says that involved in America,” Fegan's letter.
A trophy case of plates signed by celebs contained in the washings of France
In detail the property tour, Fegan recounts a geothermal system, which he is considered “very cool,” a large collection of China, and finally a “cases of plates signed by celebrities.” While he does not give detailed in that Offers, the one he is talking about (Woody Allen) grasped by a “hmm.” We need more details.
If a tree falls in French wash forest, it can be replaced by a Disneyland tree
A final curious little on a million curious legs, is the essential tree curled around the iconic blue door of the French wash. Unfortunately, it was at its last leg, and Keller told Fegan and his group they worked for what they would do if the tree would die, given the splendor of the original. The solution? Keller has a copy made by companies creating fake trees for Disneyland and Las Vegas. “If the tree die, it comes to doubles, and it seems like nothing changes,” Fegan wrote. Also, maybe, can't say about the views of all French washing.
Read the whole piece from San Francisco Chronicle HERE.