The low ceiling of my London apartment was filled with festive smoke. The saffron, cardamom and cloves are slowly infused into sugar syrup, while I cooked the fried vermicelli with Ghee in another frying pan for the Seviyan dessert. I haven't cooked that way for years, and with the smoke alarm of my little London apartment was close to activation.
It was my first one away from my family and felt partially liberating. I grew up in Pakistan and tired of family expectations, especially around EID holidays. When I was thirty -three, I moved to London and later moved to Scotland and looked for a chance for a new life. I was relieved to get rid of the little conversations about Samosas and Chai with relatives and chewed on a saccharine smile politely. I have accepted that EID will be lonely in the UK, and it is very good.
There were a few moments I knew I was missing, such as awakening the warm scents of cardamom and the roasted vermicelli. Every Eid morning mummy Mummy made Dadi (my paternal grandmother) by Qawami Seviyan (pictured above), which contained sixteen parts of sugar with a partially delicious fried vermicelli, cloves, saffron and cardamom. It was a pampering Eid breakfast in our home I was waiting for, but this joy was often dampened by my mother's story about family members' daily visits. I hated relatives' judgments the most – these lateral glances and the sounds about my divorce, or the eyebrows raised my tattooed arms and searched my finger.
Ramadan himself felt unusual in England. I missed the shorter working days that Ramadan brought with him in Pakistan. On the way home from work, when I was in Pakistan, we picked up fried snacks to break it quickly at Ifftar. All street corners are lined when the chickpeas with chickpeas flooded with flooded booths porosaAnd the saffron syrup was dipped in donuts called Jalebis just before the sunset. At the end of Ramadan, my mother would buy boxes full of food to give families in need to EID. Thinking about buying my cousins on Chand Raat (night before the Eid) and the organized chaos of the bazaar, where we painted our hands with Henna patterns and buy colored glasses to meet our new EID clothes, filled with nostalgia.
There was no one in England. I convinced myself to try to meet my new environment and didn't tell anyone to fast. In the usual way, I had to work through the Ramadan, and my hunger slides in the afternoon when my colleagues consumed sandwiches and salads in our open -plan office. One day lunch time I decided to join them in the office cafe to get to know people. Alice, my boss, asked me why I didn't eat and told her about Ramadan and Eid. I divided my mother's cooking, as well as the scent of saffron and cardamom, always on our kitchen, itchy Eid clothes, the itching clothes I wear, my arms and the henna in my palms. I also told him about his aunts and the uncle, whose judgment and rumors. Before I knew, my stories about warmer places and delicious food made Alice invited me to Eid with my friends.
Serious meal / qi ai
Mummy has chose me for years that they have not learned eid recipes, and now I have longed to pay attention. With the long phone calls with my mother, I found that I was immersed in the curator of the perfect Eid menu to impress my boss. Mummy gave me a list of blurred ingredients and tried to convert its disturbing instructions to actual measurements and methods. I finally decided to make Sindhi samelayered rice food pomegranate and dried plums with sheep or beef and bladderlentils and meat tubs with Masala and fresh homemade Naans; I chose Dadi Seviyan and Rasmalai for the dessert, sweet cottage cheese dumplings in the milk.
My local South Asian shop had the most ingredients for Birryani, such as Aloo Bukhara (dried plums) and Anardana (dried pomegranate) and fried delicious Vermicelli Seviyan. However, the Birryani sheep proved to be more problematic, so I required the use of beef. I decided to try my mother Dahi's friend too – they were always on the EID table with a cool yogurt with a cool yogurt, Tamarind and Menta Chutney. As I crossed the corridors of the shop, familiar spice labels and shelves filled with Pakistani rice and Atta flour at home. I longed for cooking my mother; He even missed his voice that hurt me to learn to cook.
As I prepared for EID for lunch that day, heating the whole spices in the Ghee, something from the Korma spices cocktail to Birryani for the EID loss. I didn't feel alone in the kitchen; It was as if the ghosts of both grandmothers were on my side, telling when to mix or add ingredients. My family's women's voices, who made the same food in the past, were there, though this tiny London attic cuisine has been far from my Karachi family kitchen. There was something about cooking eid lunch that created a home feeling and recall happier memories.
They were transported for a while when EID was not just the jury aunt and the boring conversations. I remember what Nani (my maternal grandmother) was always called “vintage eid”. Every year, his brother, Iqbal, held a big EID dinner at his beautiful home, Karachi. Uncle Iqbal was in foreign service and has been published in Washington DC for years; When he returned, he built a house reminiscent of fireplace places and large windows – it was very different from Pakistani homes, so I found it impressive. Best of all, it brought back American sweets to give the kids on EID: Twinkies, M&M and fruit waves, all of which are impossible to find in Pakistan.
I couldn't wait for the Eidee money envelopes we received from all the relatives, this is a tradition for EID for young children. All female family members, including my grandmother and my mother, are sitting in a harvest -style salon with floral wallpapers, rosewood carved furniture and a large piano that was always left without playback, and the men would be in the cigar room. The weak scent of spices and the barbeque charcoal in the back outdoor kitchen would mix honey cigar smoke. The uncle greets each other in their three -piece clothes with official hugs and the aunts kiss their bright, non -different shalwar kameez dresses and leave their lipstick on my face.
I take everything for the sweets, the money and the sumptuous Eid lunch made by Uncle Iqbal; After all, everyone got together. Lunch is served in a spacious dining room with a slight old tree smell. The heavy mahogany dining table in the middle of the room was so many foods full that he could barely see his surface. The French windows beige lace curtains always looked dusty, and the silver candle holder lay on the side Credenza, darkened with a discept. I heard a faint string quartet game, but I never detected the speakers.
Everyone would run to the table and around the dishes like butterflies. There were freshly made shish kebabs and naans from tandoor, Halem, RaitaAnd Nihari, with a slowly cooked meat roasted spices, as well as spices such as gingerly growing ginger, coriander, mint and tanned onions; The Birryan sheep bowl served at the center of the table. The dessert is served an hour later: Rasmalai, Seviyan and Pistchio Kulfi ice cream. Fortunately, the kids would get the first dibes at dessert. We eat about four help and come home early in the afternoon, just fall into a deep food coma.
As I made the EID meal in London, I felt something changing. I have spent so long, focusing on the negative memories of the EID and the happier – to block the family and the festive conversation that filled the walls of our homes. I forgot my aunts and their comments, and instead remembered my grandmothers, Candy, Kulfi, Eidee's packages, and all together at Uncle Iqbal. Now I brought new friends in a new home around a meal that represents my traditions. Alice's fear remained because of the taste of Pakistani dishes.
As my grandmother served Seviyan to my colleagues, I sent a photo of her mother, who was fascinated by how much she looked. He tasted the same thing – maybe because I had the same amount of love and commitment to cooking as my grandmothers and my mother. I was proud of this inevitable part who I am – my culinary culture and my family recipes that I could re -establish and share anywhere. That year, I contacted EID again and celebrated the true gratitude, tradition and memories of the festival.
Editorial note
This essay was originally published in March 2024.