My greatest family inheritance is not jewelry, old letters, or pics of sepia-toned family members – this is a tire of cheese I'm kept in my freezer. Queso añejo, a stink, salty orange-thin cheese – lovingly called Foot cheese (foot cheese) – is my heritage.
I'm from Queeros family From Mexican state of Zacatecas, particularly the Pueblo of Laguna Grande, where we were cheesemongers who returned to about 1800. My family used the traditional ways of passing through the generations, and the wheel of my freezer There's a logo of two cows changed with words “Rancho Ruedas.” It is made from the unclean milk of cattle who hurt the green grassy foothills in the countryside (Rancho de Selovice Ruedas); It was six days in an open reed.
Cheese rooted in their areas of origin cannot be copied. Queso Añejo, a source of great pride in Laguna Grande Region, an indicating culture mark. A sign of arched marking the gate of Pueblo is proud to declare “Añejo Cheese Land“(Land of Queso Añejo). While those who make it milk in milk and preserve ranching traditions, these cheeses have already made special climatic properties and attitudes pasture and fields. Everyone has a different taste that distinguishes every artist cheesemaker.
Although Mexican grocery stores and neighborhoods supply various Mexican cheeses to migrant migrants, such as Laguna grandcrafted queso, which remained in the family.
Growing up, even if a family member visited the mother, they used to take a care package that included our beloved Queo – cheese, sealed with cheed-on trip to El Norte . My Prima Arlene recalls the time he was stopped by US customs and the Border Protection of the Dallas-Fort amount of international airport. “One of my cheeses was flaged so they made me light and passed all my things,” Arlene said, laughing. “It's a 30-minute trial and cousins I traveled to complain and scream, 'just leave the cheese.' I have a task: no, that doesn't happen. “Arlene was eventually cleared, but before he was left, the agent stopped and said, 'Can I ask you, what is this cheese? Because I have hundreds of people who passed every day in this cheese. '”This is a habit, relinquishing transnational migration.
For many people, a taste of the house has rooted the exchange of substances and regional food – literally, which leads to eating generation boundaries, memories, and ancestors. Foods of Food Trencoctvered, blasted in suitcases, flew over continents, and run several miles with lack of lack, even today. It is a culinary trip showing the deep cultural attachment that migrants continue their homeland.
Alicia Rojas, who recently visited her home country of colombia, says she brought back a suitcase tetris-packed with colombian coffee, arepas, bocadillo de guayaba (guava paste), brevas conce de leche), chocolate, and Aguardiente (a vairor of anise-flavored
“Indeed, many foods I have returned from El Salvador available here in states: Frijoles Rojo de Piña (Pineapple de Piña (Pineapple Jam-white pastry and cheeses,” says Rosa Maria Rodriguez, living in Gardena, California. “But we bought them and brought them to this country to help and collaborate with our country. ”
Practice to carry ingredients from the native is moved to a variety than buying the same (often marked) US items leading to US-bearing experiences. And although the substances that were once difficult to find in the US today are more accessible due to globalization and the development of Latina communities, not all the reasons for the economy, or other reasons.
Sarah Portnoy, a professor of food studies at the University of Southern California, says cultures with Latino foods in the United States – as a means of community.
“If you take it to them – say, a person who can't cross the border,” he said, “It is a way of connecting to the house and continue to be physically.”
One of the people was Fernando Lopez Sr., who migrated from Oaxaca to Los Angeles in 1993 and spent the doors that selling Oaxacan products he sent from his state home. The following year, he opened Maria Monterrubio, gueluetza, Gueluetza, in Koreatoown in LA.
Fernando Lopez Jr., currently running classics classics today with the friend of his two brothers Los Angeles in Fresno because someone holds him from Oaxacan.
“He had no idea where Fresno – no GPS before – so he bought a petrol guide and started driving North,” Lezez Jr. “My father said he appeared to Fresno and saw a man from Oaxaca and asked him, 'Hey, are you looking for anything?' They asked him, 'What do you have?' My father opened his trunk and they said, 'Keep. Remember here.' That person leaves a couple of phone calls, and for an hour, my father has a whole community rolled around his car. “
Lopez Sr. sold The cheese of Lopez, Oaxacan, mole, bread, and Chile de Agua – many staples serving today.
“On our way in 1994 (one year after our father), our backpacks were full of mezcal, cheese, and so far, if we passed by Oaxaca, all we had to eat the identity of who we are. “
art2009 Autonomous University Chanpo study To make Laguna Grande queso añejo found that the older cheese acts as a cultural bridge between zacatecan heritage and their environmental heritage. Consumption of this cheese represents more than taste, it is a ritual that connects with their entries, preserve their traditions and feelings that belong to. The study concludes that “in this region, relationships maintained by migrants in their origin communities due to the establishment of the nostalgic market centered on the aged cheese and consumption.”
Carmen Licon-Cano, Director of Diriirs Technology Center Center at California Polytechnic State University San Luis Bishop and Builder Institute Institute (a multi-link project it has also stimulated the comfort of sensory.
“Our brain is connected in a way that our memories are linked to our senses,” Licon-Cano said. “Every time we can smell something we know it is not forgotten, it brings happiness.” In certain circumstances, we provide for others to continue the connector.
If I gave a queso añejo wheel, I cut it with the same sized wedges – the best way to stretch each piece – freeze a part of the specified foods I want to do. Cheese enchiladas fell to Smoky Chile Rojo. Crispy Gorditas wrapped in Chorizo. Pinto beans mainly chairs in smell cheese. My favorite way to eat it is a simple quesadilla – Añejo wears between two toasted tortillas de maiz – liberally picked up with a burning Chile de Árbol salsa. I live in my family's history.
Next year, when I go to Laguna Grande, it's my chance to return queso for family members – a symbol of love and gratitude to those who do the same for me.
Cynthia Rebolledo A freepadan journalist at Orange County and Los Angeles covering food and culture.
Fanesha Fabre An artist based Brooklyn media with a rich background of illustration and music. His job was a celebration of his birth as a Latina living in New York City, obtaining the Vibrancy and Beauty in his daily environment in bold illustrations.
Antentiding Editor: Serena Maria Daniels