How to make perfect chicken and dumplings



Why it works

  • If the broth is made from scratch, a whole chicken is broken into pieces, then it forms a tasty base for the dish.
  • Cooking the chicken in sections and removing the white meat before the dark meat and carcass ensures that the meat remains tender and flavorful.
  • Baking soda in the dumpling dough is combined with sour cream to give the dumpling a fluffy, airy texture.

The combination of chicken and dumplings is an American classic. Packed with veggies, shredded chicken, and light, fluffy dumplings, this thick chicken broth dish is comforting and nourishing, and I make it when I need a nice meal to warm me up. As with many popular recipes, there are many variations of chicken and dumplings, with different chefs adding their own spin.

In my research, I've come across tons of recipes that call for shortcuts like canned chicken soup, a chicken, or ready-made buttermilk biscuits cooked right on top of the broth. While these shortcuts are convenient, they don't necessarily guarantee the tastiest version of chicken and dumplings. Canned soup is often heavily salted, which means that you cannot fully control the seasoning of the food, and the finished biscuit tends to fall apart during the cooking and heating process. I wanted chicken and dumplings with a rich, flavorful broth, and dumplings that were fluffy but still packed. My recipe below is my ideal version and I make it for myself and my family when we need a warm, comforting meal.

Serious Eats / Lorena Masso


How to make the tastiest chicken and dumplings

If possible, make your own broth. While good quality store-bought broth is an option, I prefer to make it myself, as it gives me more control over the taste and texture of the base. My homemade broth is full of aromatics, including carrots, celery, bay leaves, and black pepper, and includes a whole chicken. The meat gives the broth a strong poultry flavor, while the gelatin-rich bones add body. Plus: Using a whole chicken is the most practical route, as it allows the cooked meat to be incorporated into the final dish.

Use a whole chicken, but separate the parts. While some cooks like to throw a whole chicken into the pot because the white meat cooks much faster than the dark meat and dries out easily, I remove the breast and legs from the rest of the carcass, then remove each part from the simmering broth. finishes cooking. Cooking the chicken in parts ensures that both the white and dark meat remain tender and juicy.

Thicken the soup with flour. To thicken the base, I coat the aromatics in flour, then add the broth, evaporated milk, salt and Worcestershire sauce. As the mixture boils, the starch grains swell, thickening the soup.

Use steamed milk. While many cooks use heavy cream, milk, or half-and-half, I like to reach for steamed milk—not to be confused with sweetened condensed milk. To make evaporated milk, manufacturers boil fresh milk until about 60% of the water is removed, thickening it and concentrating its flavor. It adds richness and body to anything it's used in, and here it adds a nice velvety texture to the base of my chicken and dumplings. Pro tip: Stick to a gentle simmer and don't bring the soup to a boil after adding the dairy or the fat will split.

Let Worcestershire work its magic. A dash of Worcestershire sauce – which contains malt vinegar, molasses, sugar, anchovies, onion and tamarind – is an incredibly easy way to add depth of flavor to a dish.

For the fluffiest dumplings, mix in baking soda and sour cream. Baking soda and sour cream help leaven the cookies: The baking soda reacts with the acidity of the sour cream to create airy dumplings while creating an alkaline environment that weakens the gluten and results in softer dumplings. However, it's still very important to go easy on the dough. Overworking the dough can develop too much gluten, resulting in chewy, thick dumplings. I cook the dumplings directly in the soup, so they absorb the flavor of the soup. The starches in the dumplings also help to further thicken the soup, resulting in a rich, hearty meal.

Serious Eats / Lorena Masso


How to make perfect chicken and dumplings


Cooking method
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For the chicken soup:

  • One 3 1/2 to 4 pounds (1.6 to 1.8 kg) chicken

  • 3 medium rib celery (7 1/2 ounce; 212 g), cut into 1-inch pieces

  • 3 medium carrot (12 oz.; 339g), cut into 1-inch pieces

  • 1 tablespoon (10g) black peppercorns

  • 2 bay leaf

  • 1 tablespoon Diamond crystal kosher salt; for table salt, use half as much by volume

  • 5 liter (4.7 liters) water

For the soup:

  • 2 tablespoon unsalted butter (1 oz; 28 g)

  • 1 small yellow onion (3 oz; 83 g), diced

  • 1 medium carrot (4 oz.; 113g), diced

  • 1 medium celery ribs (2 1/2 ounce; 70 g), cut into cubes

  • 1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme

  • 2 medium cloves garlic (10 g), ground

  • 2 tablespoon (16g) all-purpose flour

  • 6 cups (1.6 liters) chicken soupsee above

  • 1 cup (240ml) evaporated milk

  • 1 tablespoon (15ml) worcestershire sauce

  • 1 teaspoon Diamond crystal kosher salt; for table salt, use half as much by volume

For the dumplings:

  • 1 cup all-purpose flour (4 1/2 ounce; 128g)

  • 2 teaspoon baking powder

  • 1 teaspoon Diamond crystal kosher salt; for table salt, use half as much by volume

  • 1/2 teaspoon baking soda

  • 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

  • 1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme

  • 1/2 cup sour cream (4 oz.; 113 g), at room temperature

  • 4 tablespoon unsalted butter (4 oz.; 56 g), melted

  • 1/4 cup (60ml) whole milkat room temperature

  • 2 tablespoon fresh parsley leaves

  1. For the chicken soup: Using a sharp knife, cut the chicken breast away from the sternum and separate the legs (including the shanks) from the carcass. In a 7-quart pot or Dutch oven, combine the deboned chicken breasts, thighs, chicken breasts, celery, carrots, black pepper, bay leaves, salt, and water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat and cook, uncovered, until chicken breast registers 160℉ (71ºC) on a digital thermometer, about 35 minutes, skimming off any foam that rises to the surface.

    Serious Eats / Lorena Masso


  2. Using tongs, remove the chicken breast and transfer to a cutting board. Continue to simmer the chicken thighs until the thighs and drumsticks are tender and register 175℉ (80ºC) on an instant-read thermometer, an additional 15 minutes. Using tongs, remove the drumsticks and thighs and transfer to a cutting board. Simmer the broth with the remaining carcass until slightly reduced and the broth is richly flavored, about 25 minutes. Remove from the heat and let the broth cool slightly, about 15 minutes.

    Serious Eats / Lorena Masso


  3. Using tongs, remove the chicken carcass, transfer to a cutting board with the breasts and legs, and let cool slightly, about 10 minutes. Using a fine strainer, strain the broth into a large bowl or heatproof dish, discarding the solids; measure out 6 cups of broth and set aside. Wipe the bowl clean. Cool and reserve the remaining soup for another use. (See notes.)

    Serious Eats / Lorena Masso


  4. Using 2 large forks, cut the breast, thigh and thigh meat, as well as the remaining meat from the chicken into bite-sized pieces. Transfer the shredded meat to a bowl and discard the bones and skin.

    Serious Eats / Lorena Masso


  5. For the soup: Melt the butter in an empty pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Once melted, add onion, carrot, celery, thyme and garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender, 7-8 minutes. Sprinkle with flour; Cook for 1-2 minutes until the vegetables are evenly coated and the flour starts to stick to the bottom of the pan.

    Serious Eats / Lorena Masso


  6. Stir in chicken broth, evaporated milk, salt, and Worcestershire sauce; simmer over medium heat. Cook, stirring frequently, until mixture thickens, about 5 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste, if necessary. Reduce the heat to low to keep it at a simmer while you make the dumplings.

    Serious Eats / Lorena Masso


  7. For the dumplings: In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, salt, baking soda, pepper, and thyme. Using a flexible spatula, combine the sour cream, butter and milk and mix until completely combined. (Avoid overmixing, because it will be a hard dumpling.)

    Serious Eats / Lorena Masso


  8. Stir the chopped chicken into the soup. Using 2 large spoons, work quickly to gently drop golf ball-sized portions of dumpling into simmering soup; there should be about 15 scoops. Some dumplings may dissolve a little in the soup. This is fine because it thickens the soup further. Cover and simmer gently until the dumplings are tender, cooked through, and doubled in size, about 10 minutes. Sprinkle parsley on top and serve.

    Serious Eats / Lorena Masso


Special equipment

8-10 liter pot or Dutch oven, tongs, fine strainer, whisk

Preparation and storage

The set can be prepared up to 3 days in advance and refrigerated in an airtight container or frozen for 3-4 months. The chicken can be shredded and stored separately in an airtight container.

After cooling, the soup can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 2-3 days. Note that the dumplings may absorb more liquid as they sit, resulting in a thicker soup.

The soup can be frozen in an airtight container for up to 1 month. Do not freeze the dumplings, as they will lose their delicate texture.

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